Wednesday, May 29, 2019

Bourbon and Distilleries

One must remember that we were novices to bourbon before this trip, hardly having tasted it and knowing very little about it.  We visited some distilleries on the Bourbon Trail but didn't focus on that.  For us, that was a wise choice.  We found that too many tours of distilleries can be too much.  There is so much more to see in Kentucky, including the horse farms and race tracks, the Toyota plant in Georgetown, fine and fun restaurants, the charming old and modern city of Lexington, and much more.

House of Bourbon
Staying in Lexington for about a week, the owner of the VRBO apartment we were renting said we had to go to House of Bourbon.  She called the manager, we visited, he gave us an excellent and informative tour of the shop including their collection of fine old bourbons that they sell on the secondary market and tout it as the largest in the world.  There were old bottles from the early 1900s, some for sale in the multi-thousands.  We did some tasting and purchased a special bottle of Blanton's.
one corner of the collection
Old Bourbon and Us

Ready for a Tasting



Woodford Reserve
Our first visit to a distillery was a good one.  Woodford Reserve has beautiful old stone structures, old copper stills, a wonderful aroma in the rick house, and a grand lobby and gift shop.  Also a nice outdoor restaurant for lunch.
Distillery

Copper stills

Barrels in the rick house

the Lobby


Castle and Key
A short drive to Frankfort took us to this gem on the McCracken Pike. This beautiful old distillery was originally owned by Col. E. H. Taylor and on the tour, we heard some great stories about him; he sounded like a real character who liked to entertain, and he built himself a castle.  An admirable restoration is underway bringing this former Old Taylor distillery back into operation as Castle and Key.  They are making bourbon and expect it to be ready for sale sometime in 2020.  They are currently selling gin and vodka though that do not have to age, and it certainly tastes good.
the Castle and Distillery

mostly Vodka and Gin
the Water in the Key, source of the water and a party pavilion

Layers of Paint

a fine Mash Bill

the Rick House

Aging

Where the Train would deliver and receive

Glenn's Creek
Earlier in the week at the House of Bourbon, a local who we met while tasting told us that when we visit Castle and Key, make sure to go about a quarter-mile up the road to Glenns Creek Distillery, the former Old Crow Distillery, in process of being restored by three partners who are quite the entrepreneurs.  He said they have a great bourbon, even though it may only be a few years old.

So, this turned out to be the most fun of all the distilleries we visited.  Old Grumpy Dave Meier, one of the owners, showed us their home built stills and the entire operation was currently in what had been the shipping/receiving building.  I mean, this is really homegrown at this time and Dave is quite the storyteller.  We found out later that he had been a Kaizen Process Methodology expert who contracted to the Toyota plant in Georgetown, KY, and spoke at conferences around the world.  He retired early and has found his dream.
Cranky Dave Meier, storytelling while we're tasting

Fermentation tanks
(the guys on the tour were from Massachusetts and VERY hungover)

Homemade Distillery

Master Distiller adding some moonshine

We purchased a few bottles of OCD #5 but wish we bought more of it and other bourbons and vodka that they make.  It is a small operation but will grow as they rehabilitate the original buildings which were abandoned in 1987.  OCD stands for Old Crow Distillery and #5 stands for the old fermentation tank in the original distillery where they found some live wild yeast which they use today.
nothing fancy

Makers Mark
Each distillery is unique but a distillery is a distillery.  When we got to the Makers Mark distillery in Loretto, KY, rather than sign up for the tour we went to their salesroom which included an area where you could dip your own bottle of bourbon in the wax.  I certainly enjoyed the opportunity with a bottle of Makers 46 which shall remain unopened as long as I have it to remind me of the experience.
Dipping

Their property was beautiful and hilly, a bus took us down to the distillery, restaurant, and sales office.


Barton 1792
We drove down to Bardstown to Barton 1792 Distillery and while there visited the salesroom, purchased a bottle of 1792 and Very Old Barton's (for cooking).  They have had a couple of costly accidents.  In March of 2019, some mash tanks were damaged; in 2018 a warehouse collapsed resulting in the loss of about 18,000 bottles of bourbon.


Buffalo Trace
Buffalo Trace is a huge facility, very old industrial in nature, bricks blackened from mold on the outside of some of the old buildings.  We enjoyed a good lunch at their outdoor cafe, passed on the tour, and went to the very nice sales area where we bought our second bottle of Blanton's.  Their tour is supposedly very good.

People were focused on Blantons with the horses on corks


KY Cooperage
So important in making good bourbon is the white oak barrels in which it is stored, imparting color and taste.  So we drove down to Lebanon to Kentucky Cooperage and had a great tour, a true learning experience.  Seeing the entire process was highlighted toward the end when they char the inside of the barrels which leads to some special tastes.
a Stack of Staves

Staves with inside charred
Unfortunately, no photos were allowed inside the plant.

Our Collection
We came home with a nice collection which will ebb and flow.  Some we can replace and the collection will grow.  Others like OCD #5 from Glenn's Creek can only be replaced when we return to Kentucky.  The Castle and Key Gin and Vodka "Restoration Release" will be keepers, never to be opened by us.


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